Nyckelharpa # 5 is DONE!
It is very similar to # 4 but with a few changes:
It's a 4 row Harpa!
There are 5 fewer high notes but 7 extra bass notes.
There's been a slight design change in the body shape, scale length, tuning machines and the keys.
I've just started building the next one too.
# 5 will be available when # 6 is done.
Possibly some time by the end of April.
This time I went back to experimenting with a design from my
first 2 Harpas: Brass rods connect from the end of each key and run thru
a hole on the key box. This is an attempt to keep the cost down by
saving time and also you can see which note your playing when the little
brass end pops out. (Almost like a tiny light flashing to help you see
where you are)
And instead of running the under strings through the tailpiece,
these are attached directly to the end block. This was an attempt to
relieve pressure on the tailpiece, and of course, save time on the
construction.
There are 10 under strings, 6 on the right and 4 on the left. I had to drop 2
strings to make room for the tangents on the low string.
Instead of Ebony Cello pegs, this one has 4 Five-Star brand Banjo tuners. Tuning is easy and a pure delight but they do make the nose a bit heavy.
You notice it only when you pick up the instrument.
Once you have it strapped on, you can't really feel the extra weight.
I've modified the thumb rest too.
This one is a little more solid and durable then the one on # 4.
Made of 2 pieces of Ebony and Maple. The Ebony is glued onto a piece of Maple which is then screwed onto the edge of the neck.
(Easily removable if you don't like it)
In the pic below you can see I miscalculated the placement of the Banjo tuners, and put them too close to the key box.
I had to come up with an idea to keep the strings from popping up off
the top of the tuners so I installed brass eye screws to help compensate
the angle on the high and low strings .
Not sure what the price will be yet.
Probably somewhere between $2500. and $2800.
(Case and violin bow included)
Its still in quarantine. Giving it some time to settle in.
Its not quite completely done yet either. I still have to finish up some minor details and possibly make a few minor changes.
Also have to add in a few more photos and of course, practice on making a quick video/sound sample too.
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Here's # 4:
This is the 4th Nyckelharpa I've made
and is based on a design and blueprints from
Soren Ahker of Sweden.
The top is made of Redwood.
The string length (from nut to bridge) is 13 - 1/2 inches and is currently tuned like a Viola.
The neck, back and sides are made of highly figured Maple and stained with 'Merlot'
(A nice burgundy wine color)
The keys are made of Purpleheart.
The keybox is made of Ebony.
The bridge is stained Maple.
The 4 main tuners are Ebony Cello pegs
while the under-string tuners are made of used
Mandolin tuning machines.
The tanjents are made of brass screws and Ebony.
4 Viola sized fine tuners.
Tailpiece is made of figured Maple.
It is attached to the body with a single
large wood screw.
One of the few departures from the original design: there are only 2
"walls" in the key box. Original blueprint calls for 3 (including an
"inner wall") I made it so the back end of the keys are visible when
being played. As each key is pressed, the back end pops out slightly so
you can see where you are when playing.
The brass eye screw is where the strap is attached.
The back end of the strap attaches to an open brass eye hook near the end of the body.
Another added feature I've installed: A thumb rest.
I always found it difficult to keep a steady grip when playing with the left hand.
This piece Ebony seems to help immensely!
(And it can easily be removed if you don't like it)
The case is made of Plywood for the top and back and carved Pine 2x4's for the sides.
Inside is padded with foam and covered with blue felt.
Brass hinges and latches, a fine tick leather belt for the handle is
attached with brass screws. The bow is held in place with a piece of
leather and a bent padded piece of brass.
There are 2 inner storage compartments big enough for a rosin box and a
tuner. Extra strings fit in the open compartment next to where the the
peghead is.
Has a very nice deep rich mellow sound.
Here's a video/sound sample of # 4:
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The Nyckelharpa (or "Keyed Fiddle") is the national
folk instrument of Sweden.
I made my first Nyckelharpa in 1999 thanks to a grant from the Prairie Lakes
Regional Arts Council.
The design is based on the blueprints from the book I
bought from Soren Ahker. I eagerly awaited the arrival of the original 1998 copy
and was somewhat surprised (?) that the text was printed in Swedish! A bit of a
barrier that for some reason I either didn't think about at the time or simply
knew that the numbers, measurements and dimensions would be the same...
which thankfully they were.
(A few years later, this fine instruction manual was printed in English but I
have Yet to see a copy of it!)
Anyway...This is how it turned out. I was quite pleasantly surprised that it
turned out as well as it did. For at the time, I had never seen one in person
and certainly had Never played one before.
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My next project was to build a
Moraharpa.
This is the
old medieval form (or ancient ancestor) of the modern day Nyckelharpa. There is
a stone carving on a church in Gotland, Sweden.
Below
is an excerpt taken from the American Nyckelharpa Association web-site:
The oldest "evidence" of nyckelharpa use is a relief (left picture) on
one of the gates to
Kallunge church on Gotland from about 1350 depicting two nyckelharpa players.
I built this one from photographs off the internet. Its a very simple design and
also has a very limited playing range.
(It must have been more of an accompaniment to some sad, droning vocal
lament...so common in Medieval Scandinavia)
It turned out real nice, too but it was like driving in only one gear. A friend
of mine, who is part of a local Medieval reenactment group, bought this one.
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My next attempt was to build a "Fiddleharpa".
The standard size Nyckelharpa is tuned like a Viola and I wanted
something that could be tuned and played like a Violin.
I experimented a little with the design, as this one has a carved arched
top and back. I have found that this didn't necessarily add to the sound of the
instrument, as the first one I made (with a flat top and back) actually sounded
better! I also added in a 4th row of keys for the 'G' string. (This was
apparently nearly un-heard of at the time, as I recall very few builders had
tried this) Times have changed though and it is now quite common to see several
different varieties and experimentation going on with the making of these
instruments.
This Fiddleharpa is no longer for
sale.
An issue had developed recently with the Fiddleharpa. The D and G strings were
not behaving very well. I couldn't seem to get a good, clear note when the little
tangents hit each string, and instead, an awful buzzing sound was produced! I
thought it must be from the fact that the scale length is so short.
However...I finally realized that the posts of the tangents were too tall and
flimsy, so I went in and reinforced each one and now it all seems to be working
fairly well. (I have some more testing to do on it yet. Still a slight
buzz, but if you just apply a tiny bit more pressure you get a good clear note)
So... For now... I've decided to keep this one for myself. I've
had it for years now and it has spent way too much of that time enclosed in its
case on a shelf! I only fairly recently dug these Harpas out of storage and
tuned them up and have become totally "hooked" on playing them again.
I'm still planning on building More of these wonderful instruments some time.
Just don't know when. It sounds like there are still way too few builders here in
this country and I'm hoping I can "help out with that" a little!
If you are still interested...let me know.
The next Fiddleharpa will be very
similar to the one here down below. The top and back will be flat
though, and not carved into an arch.
Made of highly figured Maple for the back, neck and keys. Walnut
for the sides, tailpiece, peg box and top lid.
The soundboard is made of Western Cedar and is adorned with an
intricate grapevine design in soft lead pencil.
I'm afraid this is as good as it gets for photo quality. Having a little trouble
with pixilation when down sizing the pics.
The keys are rounded to make it easier to slide up and down the scale. The lid
is a non-traditional addition that can easily be removed if it gets in the way
of seeing the moving keys.
Each key is attached to the left side peg box by little brass rods that are
easily visible when you press in a key. This makes it easier to see where you
are with the lid down.
The 'E' string tangents are made of pieces of oblong aluminum rods (actually
model airplane parts) It was an experiment that worked. The rest are pieces of
Cherry wood.
4 Ebony tuners for the main strings and a set of Gotoh Mandolin tuners for the
under strings. (I added in a piece of tree branch as a thumb rest) Scale length,
from nut to bridge, is 14 inches.
(About the same scale length as a Mandolin)
The case is made of Pine and Plywood and is padded with foam and lined with
felt. 
There is a small storage compartment with a lid. A half-size Violin bow an a
leather strap is included.
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Used Violins for Sale: